Bells jet boat services and Mr. Balkaran provides boat and captain to go to Marshall falls and first set of rapids up the Mazaruni river. We took our dinghy. We spent a day with the agricultural adviser (Halbert’s brother) visiting farms along the rivers.

2 BERBICE RIVER

TO Waypoints to enter the Berbice

WP1 6 deg 25.31 N 57 deg 30.87 W

WP2 6 DEG 23.54 n 57 DEG 29.26 W

Follow buoys in dredged channel to bauxite ship then 12ft plus of water to New Amsterdam (bauxite ship on channel 16 and 74)

WP3 New Amsterdam 6 deg 15.97N 57 deg 31.62 W

NEW AMSTERDAM

Customs and immigration are here

At ferry stelling (wharf) tie dinghy to steps on east side only (local boats use west side) and allow for tide Find the supervisor or manager of stelling (dock or jetty) for permission to leave dinghy

Good market, shops, internet, spare parts, Scotia bank for visa/master card cash advances inside bank. No ATM anywhere when we were there.

We went 130 miles up Berbice river to Kwukwani

Just after New Amsterdam, power lines cross the river probably 80 ft but they are highest on the East and deepest side of the river where lines are more than 100 ft high.

A new bridge is going to be built a little further up but will be in excess of 100 ft. clearance

The river shallows soon after and west side is the deepest. Once river starts to narrow a bit there is good deep water all the way to Kwukwani. Where river widens en route deepest part is on outside bends.

There are many Amerindian settlements and rivers to explore en route.

Approx. 80 miles up was the Wick river on east side (narrow but min depth 9 ft). We tied to trees on bank and explored 40 miles up river by dinghy (take more fuel and go further) to interesting lakes and logging camps.

We used our dinghy to explore the next main tributary and Amerindian village on West side of the Berbice but it is obviously big enough and deep enough to go with your boat. Here we bought male and female paddles (unique to this river)

Approx. 130 miles up is Kwukwani shallow draft vessels anchor beyond barges loading bauxite (use outside bends for deepest water) Drafts of 5 ft or more should anchor before the barges and on east side of river fore and aft and out of the way of the barges

Market and town of Kwukwani 40 min walk, 15 min bike ride, 10 min local bus

From Kwukwani upriver explore by dinghy. Approx. 40 miles up at Rock Landing is a house on RHS belonging to Donald and Agnes take Hammocks and food. Ask Donald and Agnes permission to sleep overnight in hammock, then explore further up for a day or so or return same day. Get a local family in Kwukwani to keep an eye on your boat. We recommend Otil and Vincent. Their sons Mark and Leon are good birdwatching guides

3 Entering Guyana via the Orinoco & the Northwest Rivers top of page

WAINI, BARIMA, SEBAI, ARUKA AND KAITUMA RIVERS NW REGION AND KNOWN AS NORTHWEST

Crossing from Venezuela

The Orinoco

Whether you come down this great river as we did (after going up the Macareo River) or from the ocean via the well-buoyed channel enter the Barima River dead centre over the shallow mud bank between it and the Orinoco River. There is a very large ship aground inside the Barima. Anchor at the Venezuelan Border Post in front of the building with flag and present papers. They normally will come to you.

Then anchor in front of the Guyana building about 200 yards further on. Here passports and ships papers are inspected then you go about 10 miles further to the Police station at Morawhana, where details of all papers are recorded.

To enter NORTH WEST REGION from the Sea

Follow these waypoints on your GPS.

WAYPOINTS– Waini river – Morawhana passage which gives access from the sea to Barima, Kaituma and the Aruka Rivers

WP1 Outer Waini Beacon 8 deg 28.0 N 59 deg 48.0 W

A. To enter Morawhana Passage, Barima river system

WP2 Double black poles 8 deg 26.759 N 59 deg 47.732 W

WP3 8 deg 25.801 N 59 deg 48.355 W

WP4 8 deg 24.949 N 59 deg 48.882 W

WP5 8 deg 23.493 N 59 deg 49.779 W

WP6 double poles 8 deg 22.230 N 59 deg 48.289 W

WP7 8 deg 21.536 N 59 deg 47.704 W

WP8 Mora passage entrance. 8 deg 20.702 N 59 deg 47.073 W

Leave black pole to stbd

Notes

1 These waypoints are near poles except for pole marking entrance to Waini river

2 Poles have radar reflectors

3 WP6 – double poles – good to anchor near (but out of the channel) overnight - well sheltered from prevailing east wind

4 Local boats are helpful and if in doubt could be followed in.

5 Reverse waypoints when leaving Mora Passage but no need to go to Waini Beacon if going SE to Pomeroon river – go off from WP2

6. these waypoints take you across mud flats – we found min depth 8 ft at half-tide (rise and fall 5 ft to 8 ft)

To enter Waini river

Follow WP2, 3, 4, then to black pole at mouth of Waini river East side, at approximately 8 deg 22.25 N 59 deg 49.12W

Enter slowly leaving pole to port

We were given 3 days visa only to stay at Morawhana and if this is still the case when you check in, call the Minister of Tourism who says he will fix any problems personally. Few yachts enter Guyana so processing them is not a priority at this date.

(Surely this has changed)

If this fails, use one of these alternatives to enter.

1. At Morawhana say you will go to Port Kaituma and fly to Georgetown to extend your visa as we did.

2. Proceed to Port Kaituma (about 70 miles) enjoy the area if police ask, say you intend to go to Georgetown

3. Leave Port Kaituma and explore what you want of rivers do not check out at Morawhana police station as you will be over your 3 days and illegal proceed to Charity in Pomeroon River and clear in there. Customs and Immigration are now operational full time here.

If you fly to Georgetown this is the procedure. One person to stay with the boat. ( desirable in Kumaka, not necessary in Port Kaituma) Fly from Port Kaituma or Mabaruma airport near Kumaka, go to Home Affairs, wear long pants and shirts with short sleeves look smart - see Miss Henry or Miss Lewis, explain one crew member is still on boat for safety of boat, emphasize you have a plane to catch so that your application can be processed quickly as against the normal 3 weeks, - take a typed letter requesting say 4 months in Guyana stating only that you want to stay for the hurricane season until December as it is not safe to be in Caribbean. State you want to visit New Amsterdam, Charity, Parika, and need to do boat repairs and maintenance and want to do tours to Kaiteur falls and Rupununi with tour companies in Georgetown.

Do not mention you want to explore the rivers as they pass through Amerindian settlements for which authorities will say you have to have permits for. Do not mention that you are a bird or nature lover as they suspect you will record things and call this research and this requires another permit you have to get before coming to Guyana. Anything different from above complicates the issue, takes many days to sort out, and it is unlikely you will get more than 2 weeks.

After you get permission from Home Affairs, proceed to immigration. Ensure Home Affairs calls immigration (get the name of the contact) to arrange the stamping of the passport of the person left on the boat (otherwise immigration will only process persons that are there to sign the forms.) With this permission, we enjoyed travelling as far as we could up many rivers for over 6 months renewing our visa after 3 months in Georgetown.

HIGHLIGHTS of Northwest rivers.

1 Sebai river go up approx. 3 miles. Tie to bank, explore further to Sebai mission with dinghy (40 mins) find Herbie Campbell or the Captain of the Village

2 Port Kaituma River ends in a turning basin Anchor the boat out of way so that barges and tugs can manoeuvre. Tug captains and crew helpful with info. Can leave boat for a few nights if desired safely as Coast guard building is on turning basin they will watch your boat. Also, advise police. AGAIN, everyone wants to help.

Port Kaituma 4 wheel drive trips inland and the Kaituma river Les Myer has shop and operates 4 wheel drive vehicles to Gold Mines and Matthews Ridge etc. It is not necessary to charter a jeep, ask if there is space on a trip he is doing. It’s cheaper this way unless you have a group of your own. Les has excellent tours to Matthew’s Ridge and the defunct Manganese mine. This is near infamous Jonestown.

3 Barima river cabbage factory(heart of palm)

MONEY CHANGING Northwest Rivers No banks in this area carry US$ if crossing from Venezuela

Kumaka Change US dollars in Kumaka with Ricki Khan who owns general store and liquor store. He is a member of Parliament. If he is absent and in Georgetown, you could phone him after hours for help and information. Ricki will help in any way he can.

Port Kaituma Change US dollars in Port Kaituma with Les Myer

When travelling along the coast en route to the Pomeroon river and all the rivers–we followed depth contours on the chart showing 9 ft of water plus but found in many cases the water was deeper. The aim is to stay in 9 to 15 ft of water. If it gets shallower just move out to sea a bit. You could be in only 9 ft yet 5 miles off the coast. Anchor before dark en route if unable to make the next river in daylight as many fishing seines abound. Just drop anchor in enough water to allow for your keel and low tide. Our nights were calm with a little roll seven miles out to sea in the calm hurricane season. Seas would obviously break here if onshore winds blew as they do out of hurricane season.

4 POMEROON RIVER top of page

TO ENTER POMEROON RIVER ACROSS THE MUD FLATS

WP1 7 deg 41.48N 58 deg 45.896W

WP2 7 deg 40.998 N 58 deg 45.704W

WP3 7 deg 40.289 N 58 deg 45.599W

WP4 7 deg 39.764 N 58 deg 45.602W

WP5 7 deg 39.01 N 58 deg 45.649 W

WP6 7 deg 37.984 N 58 deg 45.342 W

WP7 7 deg 37.475 N 58 deg 45.047 W

Notes

1 Shallowest part WP2 to WP5 with minimum depth 7.5 ft at half tide ( 6 to 9 ft rise and fall)

Enter on rising tide.

2 WP5 is just west of a broken off pole which shows about 4 ft at half tide. Leave pole to port. After WP5 water gradually becomes deeper

3 WP7 is at mouth of Pomeroon river as you enter depth increases.

Charity is the main town about 20 miles up river. Customs and Immigration are now permanently at Charity

There are small shops and houses along the riverbanks. We anchored on west side of river in front of Gobin family house and shop (just ask) where there is a sign saying “Guinness is good for you” about 2 miles before Charity

We then dinghied to Charity when we needed to for rum or to go to Georgetown. Boat very safe in Gobin’s care.

Otherwise anchor in front of or near Barakat sawmill just past Charity on East bank. Mizam Barakat owner of sawmill will arrange customs and immigration clearance for you. He wants to build a facility for boats and is looking for a partner. He has the land and