Alaska is as difficult to describe as the Great Barrier Reef both so vast but with both, from the air, an understanding of their enormity, what they are about and what to expect becomes apparent.

Before landing in Anchorage and on the lower short flight to Valdez Alaska unfolded. Hundreds of craggy black mountains, their irregular sharp black rocky crags reaching towards us with sides covered in snow, with snow covered valleys between not a footprint anywhere. Vast deep fiords ran inland for over 50 miles. Tiny lakes were suspended here and there on or between mountains while large lakes filled valleys. Glaciers that sprinkled the ocean with icebergs as they calved; other enormous Glaciers ending up in lakes after grinding their unhurried way for twenty or so miles their surface distorted as they buckled creaked and growled under the phenomenal pressures. Some ended up hanging into a valley with a cascade of icy water falling from them. The only rare signs of humans were light amphibious aircraft moored in a lake or fiord. Alaska seems to have as many of these aircraft as people as they are the only way to explore wild Alaska. Vast empty icy exciting country spread below us then we were on the ground and there was Denise with her two young blonde girls very easy to find in the small airport.

These folk rescued our trip to Alaska. Yvonne booked a time for our free tickets only to find out some months later when we had internet we could not afford to be there. Back packers dorm US$50 a night, rental cars $100 a day too much for our $1000 a month budget. BUT friends said before you cancel email John and Denise they may have ideas. An offer of a wonderfully friendly 1965 Dodge truck from folk we had never met saved the day giving us yet another experience we will never forget.

After meeting John and Dodgee we set up our tent in a gravel pit surrounded by a view of snow capped mountains reflecting in pools around us. It was warm and sunny during the days we enjoyed exploring with our hosts. Large prawns or shrimp came out of their pots and were devoured. Fishing trips were an unaffordable $300 or so but Yvonne soon found that Halibut up to 150 lbs were bought back for crew to filet for charterers and so much meat was left on the disposed skeletons we never wanted for halibut or salmon fresh from the ocean. John and Denise in their skiff (what we call a 15 ft tinny) took us to a glacier and rookery. Birds were every where to delight Yvonne. On a brilliant sunny day we navigated the narrow passage from where we could see Shoup Glacier. The bay was full of icebergs many with birds standing on them. The snow of a glacier is so compressed that the crystalline structure of the ice formed is altered and reflects only blue light so the glaciers, particularly in the crevices, have a mysterious blue colour which combined with the crackling growling noises emitted had us captivated to the amusement of the family of four. We walked to end of the glacier enjoying the pristine bay. Long discussions where to go in Alaska were held between John and Yvonne. There are few roads and not many people who all refer to the rest of USA as the lower 48 and really believe they are above the mess the rest of the country holds fast to. (They remind me of Queenslanders in Australia and Bavarians in Germany) Wonderful, friendly all with an amazing story to tell.

Dodgee started easily in the cold mornings and, after 5 minutes warm-up, took off like a youngster. On our first journey to stock up for our drive through Alaska he would not start. I had many calls to John at work before I diagnosed no gasoline. From then on with both tanks full he bounded faultlessly along for 4000 miles sucking gas at 11 miles to the gallon.

Here in Valdez (famed for that tanker Exxon Valdez…) there was no dark. We could read 24 hours a day by sunlight. We had no problems with sleep albeit we did get into our sleeping bags at interesting hours.

We are off to explore Alaska in Dodgee as he purrs along at a sedate 40 mph but has a mind of his own as to where he wants to go drifting all over the narrow roads alarming oncoming vehicles and his occupants. Birds, berries and pull offs (where the roads widen slightly so we can squeeze off the road alight and absorb the view) stop Dodgee every minute or so but his handbrake is vicious and he waits patiently.

At our first stop there was panic, an oily mess below Dodgee but it is only the gas tank dribbling out of the filling hole and dissolving the road. Next stop Panic again, water below Dodgee but this time only a busted 6 gallon water container we carried. These were the only two 'problems' we had with our dear friend and both on the first day. We talked to him affectionately with encouragement over the next six weeks the same as we do to our engine on Australia 31. This tactic of kindness to machinery really works.

Not many miles were covered as we discovered glaciers, waterfalls, vistas then rolling spongy tundra as we climbed above the tree line. Alaska's ducks in every pond and berries under every bush necessitated alighting.

"What's the time?" Yvonne asked.

"11.30," was my gasping reply. No darkness is a problem when you are as excited as we were. We drove without stopping for a further ten miles to the Nebnezna turnoff and another ten miles up this road when I said, "Midnight we must set up camp."

Yvonne cooked a stew while I erected our tiny tent and blew up the six inch air mattress. (When it was suggested by my wife we would camp in Alaska my only condition was I would no longer sleep on a Half inch mattress which was 3 ft x 1 ft.)

As we were mainly in the wild we undress outside the tiny tent and scramble inside. First we crawl into a double envelope of cotton Yvonne built then we squirm into the two bags zipped together to make a double bag finally we zip up the bags around our necks and soon are warm again then we listen for bears.

Bears.

We hear about bears on landing in Alaska. Two in a tent, armed with a gun (which we do not have) are eaten. Alaska uses the word mauled but we know mauled equals eaten "How will we survive 60 days in a tent?" I ask. My wife replies, "Don't be stupid." This does not console me.

We are armed with tinkling bells and two whistles to inform the bears we are about and to not be surprised. I only hope that tinkly bells takes their appetite away too. We also have a big can of pepper aerosol to spray into the bear's mouth but I hope

this will not be used.

Always we bolster each others bravado as we crawl into our sheet and double sleeping bag with the bells and bear spray to hand.

Rolling over is a problem as by roll over number three the sheet envelope wraps one way the sleeping bag the other and we are in a double straight jacket and can neither roll over or escape. The first time this happened (on day one) Yvonne asked as we struggled at 3am in the daylight, "What if a bear shattered our tent right now?" This terrified me and I squirmed and pulled and exerted but now the zip was stuck and I must not strain it as we have 59 more days in this tent to be bear bait and I can no longer reach the bear spray. I am bear bait, trussed and tied ready for eating. At this very moment a Vole (a two inch long rodent) scuttles near the tent. The poor animal was as terrified as we were as we rang tinkly bells and blew whistles.

Disentangled Yvonne is immediately asleep but matters worsen as she makes grunting noises such as a randy female bear would make. I awaken her and am chastised for this stupid thought but I believe it to be true for the rest of the 59 nights as we call the hours from 10 pm to 9 am. My predicament is I am actually attached to the person making the bear attracting noises. Death or damage seems inevitable to my frail body even tho I make no noise often holding my breath for minutes at a time to better hear the encroaching danger of bears. One hand on the bear spray the other on the tinkling bells I snatch bits of sleep. Alaskans at every place we meet them reassure us. There are black bears and brown and, they say, black bears shit berries while brown shit little tinkly bells. We are advised to spray our defensive spray over ourselves as brown bears have taken to hot peppery food. However we are 'consoled ' by a story that moose kill more people than bears by trampling them to death in fact yesterday in a town a tourist was being trampled by a moose while his three friends tried to push the 1500 lb animal off him. A soft mass was all that remained

I see many moose as we travel and it is easy for me to envisage the animal rapidly beating its front legs on top of me rapidly mutilating my body. Moose have not ever (to date) trampled a tent.

We have rules. We cook far from the tent and lock all food inside Dodgee's cabin along with all cosmetics and any thing that smells for example socks. Yvonne's one pot stews are fabulous but how does one not fart after them. Australian farts do not smell much (much) but bears have sensitive noses and if I pull the bag around my throat to stop odour escaping Yvonne complains. Bears are frightening but a wife…

Next rule make a noise as you hike along. Ring bells sing "Hello Mr Bear" "Do not eat me Mr Bear" especially as you round a corner of trail. Every where else one must walk quietly to enjoy nature here we are scared into being noisy. We even met a family of four all playing mouth organs as they walked as well as Swiss with tins full of stones. I asked the Swiss what happens if you rattle stones when walking in Switzerland. "The hikers would kill us," they cried as they went off yelling in Swiss Deutch and rattling stones. But as one walks enjoying nature one quietens absorbing all around until memories of mauling rush to the surface and "Get stuffed Mr Bear," is shouted out.

We are told never run as a bear will eat you full stop. If a bear charges just look big stand together and at the last minute it will turn away…probably. If it continues lay down and be very still he bear will sniff you and go away (Unless he takes objection to your trousers full of shit) OK

We cross into Canada to Scagway then by ferry as we want to visit the capital of Alaska, Juneau, which has no roads to it.

On visiting a Canadian information centre we find the bears her are different.

'Watch an approaching bear if its ears are back and it is zig zagging it is inquisitive so lie down and be still (put your head between your legs and kiss your faithful arse goodbye.) The bear will sniff you and go away UNLESS it is black. If it is black fight back as they are more carnivorous and like meat. Punching the bear on its sensitive nose is highly recommended but do not miss and allow your arm to enter the bear's mouth. Also avoid the long arms and razor claws as they will rip out your guts as mentioned before.

However if the bear of either colour has its ears up and is not zig zagging fight it as it is coming to eat you. Lastly every bear that rips a tent open is going to eat you so punch it in…etc

Also in Canada do not tinkle bells as this attracts inquisitive cubs and mums have even killed a helicopter to protect their cubs.

One camp ground had a sign "No tenting after 1 July due to bears." "Good news, Yvonne said, "Today is the 29th June we will be OK." Her bravery is governed by birds and she had just seen a horned owl so there was no way we were leaving that camp.

We did see bears and they are powerful majestic animals particularly the browns or grizzlies with the great hump of muscle on their backs that works their arms containing power claws that rip guts out.

A bear eats all day and by following bears it has been

shown they eat 20,000 blueberries or 200,000 soap

berries a day just by sucking them off the bushes. This ensures a successful hibernation. However whenever I saw a bear eating berries I visualised him waking up from hunger in the middle of a hibernation thinking, "if only I had eaten those two bloody Australians instead of bloody berries I would still be asleep."

We saw our first bear on a sidewalk in Juneau. Alaskans have little fear of bears but many carry a gun instead of spray. They all have horror tales. Alaskans respect bears and state wide outrage was expressed when a mother of triplets was shot in the stomach and died. The villain, the human, is enjailed. If all this important information on bears confuses you do not worry we rang bells and are alive to tell this story but next time I visit I will be in a small metal bear proof RV vehicle, tenting is a bit stupid.

Alaska continued.

Awakening after our first wild camp and happy to be undevoured I cook oats and tea on our tiny 7 oz stove then fill our thermos with boiling water for a later morning tea. This became a routine. After collapsing our tent but leaving the mattress inflated with our bedding on it we lifted the lot into Dodgee making setting up camp much quicker as we did not

have to unbag the tent. The ground at many places we chose to camp was too tough to drive the 9 tent pegs we needed so I organised rocks on string to hold the tent. We carried these rocks with us as often we came to hard ground with no available rocks. A reasonably flat area of land was all we needed to set up camp. We had little difficulty with the continuous daylight as when we were tired we slept. We had no use for our two flashlights. At any hour if an unusual bird call was heard Yvonne could get out into the cold (after addressing Mr Bear) to find the bird as binoculars and telescope were stored near the bear spray.

Only once did we have ice on the tent. The weather was kind to us. I wore thermal long johns only four days and when climbing on ice. On two days we had what Alaskans call heavy rain. This was a slight drizzle compared to what we are used to. On these occasions we found a shelter to cook meals under. Our tent was waterproof and surprisingly warm.

Nebneza road camp was alongside lakes with spongy overland hikes as there were no trails. For three days our tent remained in the same place as we enjoyed exploring.

Crossing the Canadian border customs asked many questions about Dodgee who was the oldest vehicle we saw during our travels. Even the indigenous people, whom we enjoyed immensely, drove young trucks. One family had twenty one junked vehicles in their yard, as seems the custom, and the oldest was 15 years younger than Dodgee. Again Canadian country was equally spectacular a we chugged through it. Dodgee remained in Scagway when we ferried the 11 hours to Juneau sighting Right and Fin whales along with a zillion birds.

The parents of John, Barb and Kim, who were our age, met us and looked after us exceedingly well whilst we were in Juneau placing a roof over our head and another (new) vehicle under us as well as taking us climbing on glaciers and canoeing and boating. Unlike us these folk run 7 miles every morn. They hiked for many weeks about the Arctic Circle towing 400 lb of provisions on sleds, real Alaskan explorers. Juneau was a treat: spectacular mountains and a large glacier in town.

Back to Canada and onto to Alaska. The high altitude tundra of Tombstone Park was a highlight. Wolves examined us from a distance on one of our hikes. Dawson City a tiny ex gold rush town rejuvenated by Parkes Canada to include 'Gold Tooth Girty's' casino as one of the highlights. Everywhere we go gold rush history is prominent. Here we enjoyed young indigenous folk striving to revitalise their culture. It fascinated us to learn that the important lengthy ceremonies for a girl reaching puberty differed little from those in the San Blas islands, Panama. The predecessors of these Amerindian people must have had similar ceremonies 70,000 years ago before they crossed the Bering Straights.

Crossing the border at ?? Population 2 we travelled the Top of the World highway for a few days ending up in Denali Park where we had booked 7 days camping at wonder lake 70 miles inside the park. A moose galloped through our camp the first night. Buses run this trail and we could board them to visit and goggle at and hike different areas of this spectacular park.

The awesome 20,000 ft mount Denali displayed itself for the first two days. The warm orange red of the simultaneously lowering and rising sun at 3 am was truly wondrous as I froze photographing the scene. Many brown (grizzly) bears were sighted eating the zillions of berries. Moose prevailed and a cow with triplets was viewed near our camp.

The hundred or so kilometres from Denali to Cantwell took us four days due to birds and vistas and the gravel road was devoid of the thousands of RV vehicles of humungous size. Huge converted buses towing a gas guzzling 4x4 vehicle and one even had a boat in tow after that and was about a hundred feet long getting one or two miles to the gallon. Many of their geriatric (about our age) owners admired Dodgee regressing back to simpler days when they drove his cousins BUT none were willing to swap their $500,000 plus vehicles.

Back to Anchorage to enjoy excellent museums then to

Kenai Peninsula where we camped on the beach at delightful Homer for four days. The highlight was a bird watching boat trip where puffins of two types abounded along with 17 other birds new to us. Millions of salmon struggled shoulder to shoulder up creeks to have sex to die for.

Then slowly back to Valdez to return Dodgee to the family who made all this possible. Alaska was an experience Thanks to them.